This is the crack made of flakes just left of

Procrastinator

and right of Ya Lives and A Crackwork Orange. We were expecting A Crackwork Orange and found this crack instead which is much easier.

Start up the hollow sounding flakes (watch cam placements) to an angling handcrack crux before the anchors. This crack shares the same anchors as for

Procrastinator

.

Either rappel from

Procrastinator's

anchors or continue up A Crackwork Orange's second pitch (9-) to

Sex Face's

second pitch anchors.

Milk-Plus

Dumpster Diving

Full Moon Rising

When It All Comes Crashing Down

Brew Pub Bivouac

Chossy Dog

Safety Meeting

Man in the Woods

Can You Hear Me Now?

The Second Step

Dodging Bullets

Supernova Blackburn

Liquid Courage

Procrastinator

Ya Lives

The DTs

Green Eyed Monster

Sex Face

A Crackwork Orange

Size Matters

Character Defects

Just One More

The Buzz That Was

This is an excellent trad route worth bringing gear up to Recovery Wall for. This route throws it all at you, finger locks, hand jams, some fists, and face climbing all in one route!

P1 - 5.10c

- start on the left side of a small  ledge (belay from below this ledge), and follow finger - thin hands cracks up to a small roof. Pull the roof (crux), and follow angling cracks and chickenheads up and right to the anchors on top of

Procrastinator

.

P2 - 5.9

- continue up the crack up and right to the anchors atop P2 of

Sex Face

.

Rappel

Sex Face

.

Dumpster Diving is another engaging and continuously demanding climb at the Recovery Wall.  Proper footwork will get you up this two pitch journey.

Pitch 1 goes up the tricky face to the right of the classic

Sex Face

. The crux is getting through the first 3 bolts, but you have 9  more looming ahead. Even though the crux is low, the techy face climbing doesn't let up until about bolt 8, 12 bolts, 80 feet, 11a.

Pitch 2 starts in the alcove directly above the anchors. This long pitch (105 feet) trends up and right all the way to the upper tower of this crag's ridge, 12 bolts, 105 feet, 10b.

Run out the first easy, dirty section to establish yourself in the bottom of the giant chimney. With your back against one wall and feet on the other, chimney your way up to the first set of anchors. The next 30 feet of chimney is the crux. Pull out of the giant crack to the left, and climb the slab to the top set of anchors.

Pitch 1 starts with an clever move up and left and climbs some awkward nubbins up top.

Pitch 2 is way harder....

P1. Generally easy climbing up the corner leads to a steep move to gain the left side of the crystal alcove, 5.9ish.

P2. Traverse left around the tree, and climb up on excellent holds to the next belay, 5.8.

P3. Climb the south side of the tower. This is easier than it looks, 5.8.

Rap the route.

A 70m will allow you to rap from the second belay to the ground. Knot the ends, and check to make sure your rope touches the ground before leaving the crystal alcove.

Brew Pub Bivouac requires varied style, with a little awkwardness. It starts from a broken triangle, climbs through some non-obvious little ledges, and eventually moves to good blocks to the anchors. You could get a great picture of

Man in the Woods

from here!

Chossy Dog is well bolted and a good warm-up. It is past the main wall, before the large divide.

Start up the slab just right of a tree. The features get better as the angle gets steep at the first bulge. The crux is at the parallel cracks at the second bulge. After the twin cracks, you can stay in the right hand crack (double meaning intended), making it hard to reach the bolts on the blank slab to the right, or I suppose you can friction your way onto the slab.

A 70 meter rope is REQUIRED.

From the windy slot, stem from the rock in the slot to clip the first bolt, and head up and right on crimps. About halfway up, you gain a nice hand crack that runs out, forcing you farther left and to the top.

This route follows either a challenging arete (5.9ish) or an easy corner (5.7ish) to gain the crystal alcove. The arete is recommended, but to each his own!

There are various second pitches available from the belay anchors in the crystal alcove in the range of 5.9-5.10.

The Second Step is an incredibly varied climb that offers the exposure and feeling of a much harder climb. Start to the right of the prominent roof of

Liquid Courage

.

Some interesting face climbing of 4 bolts brings you to a low angled crack.  Follow this crack to the top of a small pillar with the huge, blunt arete looming to the right. Clip a long draw on the arete, take a breathe, and trust that good holds will follow. Fall into the face holds of the arete, keep moving those feet, and enjoy the mega jugs to the top. You feel like a hero swinging though these holds with the exposure below.

A funky move behind (right) of the little tree leads to chill climbing on chickenheads and easy edges.

Supernova Blackburn is the third route on the right of the first wall. It has good hands and one tricky move.

Climb to the roof (backcleaning the first bolt will alleviate some rope drag), where you'll find a nice jug then a sequence of small crimps. The climbing eases a bit and is fun the whole way.

Start just right of a large flake crack system and above spray painted alcove (dates back to '79). Climb up excellent crimps and small edges, sustained 10b, to the anchor. It is quite good.

Procrastinator climbs easier than it looks.

This is the first bolted line down the hill, left, from the small spray painted alcove (dates back to '79).

Pitch 1 - 5.10d.

Start up the edge of the arete on easy terrain to a large granite stalagmite. Don't take the right bolted line (Recovery Wall #14). Stay on the left line, and climb the face of the stalagmite. Delicate, enjoyable climbing up patinas lead to the anchor. Three stars for the first pitch, 95 feet.

Pitch 2 - 5.10a.

I personally don't recommend this pitch. Climb 15-20 feet from the anchor to the uncharacteristically high first bolt. A few more bolts leads to a small roof with questionable rock (sounded very hollow after the second bolt over the roof). Once past the roof, continue up chickenheads to the anchor, 95-100 feet.

Make 2 rappels to the ground. If you're using a 60m, tie knots in the end for the first rappel; there didn't seem to be much rope left with a 70m.

Pitch 1 has some thin feet, to great footwork, to some more attention to your feet, mostly with solid patinas that just follow where you need. It is 10c with a couple moves pushing the edge of that.

Pitch 2 is thin with an awkward roof, 11b.

Climb an easy slab to a ledge where you can reach the bottomless overhanging crux. Power through a few moves to move up and right to the anchor.

This is the bolted line up and right from the spray painted alcove (dates back to '79) and is right of

Procrastinator

.

Pitch 1 - 11b, 75 feet.

The first pitch alone is 4 stars. Tricky moves off the deck lead to outstanding, sustained 11 climbing up small edges and nubbins. Watch for a hollow sounding flake around the 2nd-3rd bolt. The crux is three quarters of the way up the pitch.

Pitch 2 - 12a, 45 feet.

Climb past two bolts to reach a roof. Surmount the roof, and climb up very thin, delicate face (crux) to the anchor. This is another fantastic pitch.

Size Matters is a beautiful climb with great slab movement that goes up to a very difficult crux that requires length to reach some bad slopers over decent but undercut feet.

Character Defects has plenty of interesting climbing down low and moves into a thin face with four bolts.

This moderate was apparently put up during a

Rock & Ice

shoot (according to the new DH guide) and features varied climbing up a brief arete, slab, and flared cracks up to the anchors. The rock on the upper half of this route is sharp, so jam carefully.

There is more great patina on this face. If the crux wasn't so weird, this would be another classic on this wall. A techy opening gives way to a ledge under a devious crux above. The crux is fierce, well-protected, and a bit awkward trying to stay out of the corner, though this eases the difficulty and adds security above the ledge. Fun pumpy patina takes it to the anchor. A right exit past more bolts leads to the upper Dumpster alcove.

Description

Protection

Routes in Recovery Wall