Lichen Divorce

Balls and Bruans

Beetle kill

Buddha Boys

Tenuous

Dirty Little Secrets

Groovin'

One Time This, Next Time That

Hail Betty

Beyond Beauty

Babob

Burley Buttress

Slap Happy

Broken Beliefs

Cluster Bomb

Unknown 5.7

Existential Angst

Elephant with Yellow Bandanas

Break Away

Hail Betty is a fun, clean new route to the right of Existential Angst.  This is the right most bolted line on the Northwest face of Veiny.  The start is the crux which climbs a small overhang on good holds to the first bolt. Climb through the 5 bolts to the rap anchors.  After the second bolt, the route moves to the right to climb the fun arete. 

  The upper part of the route is the right arete in the photo.

Climb the face with solid horizontal cracks for pro. Leads to diagonal fist crack over the bulge.

The Wide groove crack on the left side of the formation

This route is actually fairly sustained with several "crux" sections between good stances.  It also changes character from steep fin-grabbin' to low-angled knob-pinchin'. 

  Actually a decent route.

This is a short but thought-provoking and very technical slab climb. A few easier moves to start and then a steady diet of 5.9 and 5.10 moves. Very thin hands on this one; good smearing and edging are essential to success. The route seemed to get a touch harder the higher one got, but there was no clear crux. Well-protected on lead. My two star rating is based on my appreciation for this type of climbing. If you aren't into sustained short but uber-techy slabs, your rating might mirror the no stars it gets in the new Busse and Burr guide.

This toprope route is in between Existential Angst and Babob.  It is possible that it might be bolted in the future, but right now there is a set of anchors for a toprope. 

  Follow a steep groove that comes down directly below the anchors.  A thin deceptive crux is about halfway up at a small bulge.  Also, some tough moves are encountered at a large bulge the caps off the top.

Same holds as Break Away but instead of heading right, reach straight back to some sloping holds then head straight up on super chossy flakes and hidden holds. The only reason this receives a star is because the first few moves are fun.

Located on the far right of the SE face of Veiny. 4 bolts. Very easy fun cruising climb. Great holds.

Babob is 3rd bolted line from the left on the Northwest face of Veiny. It is located to the left of Existential Angst. Climb up moderate face to a crux at a good size bulge. Pull through the well-protected bulge with crystal crimps up to good holds.

Sidepull or layback up the two -stage arete.. Sweet fun start.

The crux of this route is the obvious bulge that starts about ten feet off the deck.  There is an easy and fun water-runnel finish to this route.

Lower 12 feet is the crux. Smooth Sailing on small crystals after second bolt. Hard Start with a reach for the first and second clip. Follow the crystal dyke...

Cluster bomb is located on the same formation as 'Break Away'. The sit start is just left of the sit start for 'Break away' and heads up towards the obvious horizontal crack. The climber then heads L to R along the crack. The crux is located at bulge in the middle of the formation. The route ends at the far right of the formation. The longer your 'ape index' the more to your advantage. If your a tad short in stature you're going to have to muscle up to make the reach and hold on... "That thing is going to morph! Use a cluster bomb!"

On the South/Southeast face of Veiny are 3 new bolted routes.  This is the left most of the three, starting at a corner.  Climb through slightly overhanging schist to a bulge about halfway up.  Then continue up the easier slabby section to the top. 

  This route is pretty dirty still.  It is cleaner at the bottom if you stay to the left of the bolts.  This should get cleaner over time.

Find the bolted line in the center of the Northwest face of Veiny.  This is the center of three bolted routes on this formation.  Climb through the 5 bolts to the rap anchors.  The crux is getting up to the first bolt and moving past it, but the landing is good.

This 5.10 is on the opposite side of Veiny as Existential Angst.  I believe this side faces South or Southeast.  Follow the center of three bolted routes on this side of the formation.  The crux is right off the ground through the closely spaced first two bolts.  After that, the climbing eases to about 5.8 in difficulty.  Fun. 

  I am pretty sure that this could be easily toproped by scrambling up the East side of Veiny.

'Break Away' is located between 'the north park rock' and 'veiny.' About twenty feet south of 'just jugs' and 'fintastic.' It consists of a sit or suedo squat start. Then you 'fall' into a mono pocket, after that you reach up and over the bulge to a good flake. At this point you can match your hands (don't let your feet dap!). Then it's a matter of using the correct sequence of hands on the fins, so that you can get on top of the bulge (it's pretty pumpy). From there it's over another small ledge. I'm not sure on how to rate this problem but it felt V-1 ish. Any help would be appreciated. Have fun and bring tape!

Veiny is a fairly isolated rock as far as Rushmore formations go.  Until just recently, there was only one bolted route on it (Existential Angst, 5.10).  Now, it has at least six bolted routes, at least one trad route, and an extra set of anchors for a toprope climb up a steep groove.  The ratings of routes on this rock go from 5.6 and 5.7 up to ~5.10+.

Description

Routes in Veiny