The big block in the chimney has been reinforced.

 Starts in seam between Junior and High on the NW side.  Start is shared with Studly Haul.  Up seam past block then drift left and follow bolts up pretty holds to anchor at top of Junior tower.

 Try to avoid chimneying in the upper section.  There is a nasty-looking block up there that I don't want to touch.  And there is no need to touch it. You get a better pump with better exposure just heading out left on the face.  But it's your call.

Stewards of the Earth

Studly Haul

Class Dismissed

Class Clown

Baker's Half Dozen

Hot For Teacher

Professor Gaston

Hall Pass

Old School

Auntie Social

French Club

Vapin in the Boys Room

Can't Touch This

A stiff seam leads to a stiffer pod.  Finger-tearing Kung Foo double Gastoning up the pod leads to a rest. Tenuous face moves up a right-leaning arete to anchor.  Superglue anyone ?  May be 2 stars now that Josie has cleaned off a lot of the kitty-litter. Bolt at start of pod (just above the horzontal break) is 1/2 inch x 5 inches SS.

The big block in the chimney has been reinforced.

 Seam to lay-backs and delicate move to off-width.  Up spooky block to chimney and good rest.  Bust RIGHT out of chimney and climb up then left to anchor.  Start is shared with Stewards of the Earth.

Good crux with cool holds down low turns a tiny bulge onto a ramp. Easier but nice rock leads to a pillar. Climb pillar then traverse up and right on the cool handrail to the anchor shared with Hall Pass.EFR did a mighty clean up job getting rid of blocks and choss.

Very fun climbing up plates to a mantel onto a ledge. Then step up to anchor. Just wish it was 3 or 4 times as long.

Chimney up to slab finish.This may be "The Swan's Neck" as mentioned by Steiger in his 1985 guide to Lemmon. He and I discussed it and figured it probably was.You can probably use this route to get up and TR others nearby.

A seam leads to a solid handjam then balancy moves to an offwidth/squeeze. Rest up and bust right to pumpy face then up to anchor. This is perhaps the best route at K12.

Very nice opening moves and a kicker at the end.  Perhaps a weak 2 stars.

Up crack to squeeze chimney section (!) Hence the name. Break out left on face near top. Shares anchor with French Club. This is more-or-less the route that I aid-soloed to get to the top and start checking out the lines at K12.

A thin flake leads to a burly undercling to get on a bigger flake.  Up big flake to ledge, then up cool holds to anchor right under the psycho summit block.

 Several tricky sections keep it interesting.

Very pretty route following plates on Junior tower. Shares anchor with Old School.  This was the first sport route we put up on K12.It is also the route that some shitheads stole my draws from. No good deed goes unpunished I guess.

A good low crux leds to a ledge.  Traverse out to airy face with cool holds and up to another ledge.  A bulge leads to summit block.  You will wonder what you've been vapin when you see the spooky summit block. Don't think about it !

Nice climbing on cool holds leads to a ledge (Teacher's Lounge) then up a bulge to anchor.  Do not look at the spooky summit block too long !!Named for Ryan "Hammer" Suedkamp who was ripping off holds left and right.

Sun or shade... your choice. SE face has morning sun, NW face has morning shade. This situation flipflops at about 2:30 pm.If you are looking for easily accessible 5.10s with a nice flat hangout... The SE face of K12 may be just the thing. It has 4 5.10s, a 5.9 and a 5.11. And a 4 minute approach.  The morning shade, slightly overhanging NW face has 2 x 5.10s, 2 x 5.11s and a 12.K12 is a free-standing pinnacle composed of 4 sub-pinnacles jammed together.  The whole formation runs from NE to SW.  The 4 sub-pinnacles (NE to SW) are named: Pre, Middle, Junior and High.Some historical notes: Back in 1997 Joe Shiefman and I put up 2 new routes on the Phallus.  We also looked at this pinnacle (K12), but since there was no easy way to the top we passed on doing anything.  In Steiger's 1985 guide this pinnacle may be called "The Swan's Neck".  It's hard to see any kind of "neck" but Steiger is probably refering to this pinnacle.  (Update: Steiger and I talked about "Swan's neck" when we climbed "Can't Touch This". It is on a neck-like formation. We agreed that this must be what he was referring to in his old guide. It is now a sport route called "Smartest Dumb Guy On Earth"... 5.7) Steiger said "5.6" and "if you must" for Swan's neck.  The only other routes in this area mentioned in Steiger's guide are: Phallus 5.8 R (now called South Ridge) and Magic Mushroom March 5.6 X.  These routes are NOT on K12. MIAfter we did a few routes on the sunny SE face of K12, we turned our attention to the NW side. I assumed that I was the first person on top of this pinnacle, but as I was drilling a TR anchor for Hot For Teacher I found 2 ancient 1/4 inch bolts nearby.  Someone had tried to TR the route (or something like it) 40 or more years ago !  Looking down I could also see a 1/4 incher on top of the pillar about halfway up Studly Haul.  Who did this and when ?  I asked Ray Ringle when he was out checking our work and he had no knowledge or memory of this area at all.  Maybe Steiger will chime in.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in K12