Plug cams/nuts through chossy 5.9 moves near base to 1-move wonder crux just past first bolt.

Crocus Honey

Dusty Tang

Wild When Wet

Plane Jane

Jack and the Beanstalk

Gold Member

Hogback Hookup

Frightful Beginnings

Bear Knuckles

Presidential Showers

U.F.F. (Unidentified Flying Fish)

Intergalactic

Run out to first bolt on easy terrain. Crux is huge reach at 2nd bolt. Great for tall people.

Follow hollow flakes past loose blocks to shared anchor with Crocus Honey.

Climb slab to mantle to overhanging block to anchors. Named after FA in the rain.  Anchor is below upper roof.  Can rap from there or climb pitch 2 through big roof system of Presidential Showers, 5.11.

Climb right of arete on small edges. 5.10- variation possible if arete is off- stay on face right of bolt line.

Nice ledgy face climb, solid holds, and slightly overhanging wall make this great fun! Make a “C”-shaped curve when climbing between bolts 1 and 2 to maintain grade.  The first sport climb at Melrose!

Overhanging crack/off-width is rip-roaring fun for the masochists in the bunch.

Climb roof directly above Wild When Wet. High left heel jam, lay back, and wrestle.

Climb awkward 5.8 moves 20 ft to easy slab, and then get ready to pull through big roof move.  Crux is the last move of the climb.

Start in right-leaning roof crack just right of U.F.F.  Trad placements down low lead to 2 bolts to fixed anchors up top.  The low crack and transition into the high bolted traverse is an "Intergalactic" kind of spooky.

Crocus Honey

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in East Cliff