A long pitch, with an easy bottom and formidable looking upper section.  ~5.9 climbing on loose rock down low leads to a ~20 ft runout over easy, solid rock up to a ledge, above which the rock is considerably more solid. Carefully hang the draw above the ledge and crimp your way through the fun, cruxy face. Squeeze into a dihedral for a nice rest, then pull the small roof/bulge to the anchors just above (not visible from the ground). 

Lovin' Spoonful

Crying Like a Baby

Ten for Two

Beltway

Blu-Ray

TV Guide

Unknown

Direct TV

Blood, Sweat and Tears

Glorious Kaos

Erik's Arete

Stratosphere

Blu-Ray Direct

In Your Eye

In the Spotlight

Ozone

Magnificent 7

Karin's Corner

Shares the first pitch with In Your Eye, and takes the right variation above the anchor.   Big holds, good feet, and comfortable rock.  This thing looks improbable and yet flows really well.  The big features give it a trad feel.  

 Take off from the anchor on big feet and balancey side pulls and make your way up toward the roof.   Crux is deciphering which holds to use to clip the bolt below the roof.  After that, each 5.10 move rewards you with a rest to keep the grade down.  Send and enjoy.

6 bolts along the right side of the dihedral, leads to a two bolt anchor shared with the route on the right, Blood, Sweat and Tears. 

 Climb halfway up Ten for Two and cut left over the bulge to climb the 5.10a, Glorious Kaos, to a separate anchor.

Traverse awkwardly until the third bolt where the quality of the climb improves greatly. Trend right passing the anchors for the cave routes. A sharp slabby finish will get you to the chains equipped with carabiners. 

Crux is avoiding the sticky velcro plant in the small dihedral. Fun climbing other than that. 

A bit of dirty rock low through the chert bands leads to a gray sandpaper section past a barrel cactus towards the top.

Steep start for 1 bolt, then fun and cruiser.  Another route that is surprisingly easy on the hands.  A good candidate for cold weather, or your first route of the day, before the bees at the top wake up.

Seems about 5.9ish. Starts in a feature with a crack and overhang. Trends up and left past a blocky corner to anchors out left.

Fun climbing through exceptionally cherty bands, then it slabs out near the top on the smooth blue-grey limestone.

Four bolts leads to a two bolt anchor shared with the route on the left, Ten for Two.

Climb half-way up the 5.8, Ten for Two, then cut left over the bulge, following bolts to a separate two bolt anchor.

Fun climbing up the arête that is on the left side of the bulge. There are two variants that split off from this climb to the left, mid-way up, both are rated easier than this climb.

Start on the right side of the cave. Run it out to the first bolt, pull up and start heading leftward. Fairly moderate and fun climbing leads to a brief steep section near the top of the cave.  I suggest staying right and clipping the bolt from the side.  Above, more easy terrain leads to a final head wall and the crux both physically and mentally.  If you got rained off your trad climb, you might enjoy this rig. 

Follow 10 bolts to an anchor. The route is mostly 5.9 or easier with a short 5.10 crux, fun pockets. 

This climb can be found left of the large cave and is listed #3 on the suburban crag topo.P1.   5.9. Follow 6 Bolts to an anchor with rap rings. Relatively easy for grade with a short crux. Feels like an approach pitch. Loose block at anchor ledge. P2.   5.11a. 7 Bolts to mussy hooks. Work carefully through the first three bolts to enter pumpy vertical section. Climbing eases towards the end.

Climb small slots and underclings to a left-facing flake. Easy climbing above the flake to the anchors.See drawn topo for more info on this and the other climbs on this wall: SuburbanTopo

P1: follows the chert up on balancy moves using somewhat delicate crimps. Very runout, probably 25' to first bolt on ~5.9 climbing (usually runouts at this crag are on very easy ground but this was sketchy). Single best pitch under 5.11 at Suburban Crag. Erik's Arete is a close second.

 P2: after chert ends, gains a large ledge and then goes up a slightly overhung wall using a series of horizontal cracks and textured smears. Allegedly 5.9, but felt like stout 5.10- to me... you be the judge!

 P3 (optional): one 5.8 move off the P2 anchors, but no bolts until the chains... P3 allows for summit top out and better rap position.

Two 35m raps to the ground.

The middle variation in the corner, both in difficulty and position.

Fun climbing leads through a tricky crux over the bulge.

Sharing the start with Erik's Arete, route goes up the corner to the left of Erik's Arete to a set of anchors.  The first 3 bolts are shared with Erik's Arete.

23 Routes bolted mostly by Leo Henson.  A good post rain crag in the winter.   

  See drawn topo here: 

SuburbanTopo

  Faces south and bakes in the sun.  Pretty much a winter only crag.  

Lovin' Spoonful

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Suburban Crag