Right off the trail - This is a chimney climb behind the left flake of Black Rose. You climb two bolts then meet back up to finish on the last two bolts and anchors of Black Magic Woman. A top rope can be set by hiking up and around the back, just as with the other routes on this flake - it is just recommended that you flick the climber's rope into the chimney before starting up. I would also recommend lowering off the main face of the flake and repeating the previous step for the next person. The finish is the exact same as for Black Magic Woman, meaning that it is easy but is run out. I wouldn't recommend this as a first lead at this grade - the finish is a little heady.

Heart of Stone

Attention K-Mart Shoppers

Red Rose

Tip-A-Canoe

Fat Hippos

Black Magic Woman

Prescription

Pink Canoe

Dynamite Crack

A Rose is a Rose

Yuji Feet

Black Rose

A fantastic climb with perfect rock, a short approach, and awesome moves. Start at the base of the arete and climb past a couple bolts. The business starts after the second bolt. Get your feet up high, grab the big undercling/sidepull jug with your left hand and pinch an undercling a couple inches above that with your right hand. Hold it all tight while reaching up to a lousy pinch on the arete with your left hand. Re-adjust your feet and lunge for the jug out to the right. Footwork is key. Continue past a couple more bolts to the top, turning back onto the left side of the arete to use Black Rose's chains. The top of the climb is slightly runout but easy at 5.7ish.

Start on the north-facing, broken area at the left of the slab area on the right of the

Black Rose

area. Good starting protection can be placed in a crack on the left (a #2 DMM or Friend fits well). The climbing is easier to the right of the crack; however, the natural tendency is to move left, closer to the protection.

Tricky feet and somewhat slopey hands lead to a good stance from which to place a questionable cam, and another move or two allows a good cam.

Bear left a bit and find the curving, rightward-trending crack that leads towards the bolted anchor. Good nut placements abound in this crack.

This is a fun, easy little trad line that doesn't get done as much as it should. There's no real crux--just moderate climbing throughout.

A made-up name, but pretty good climbing.

Apparently the Ruckmans made up the name

Tip-a-Canoe

for their

guidebook

. It was either named something else or not named previously.

Anyway, it was a dirty, loose, and potentially dangerous route (dangerous primarily to the belayer). However, it has since been cleaned of most larger, loose items, and is now a pretty fun climb.

Start to the right of the bolted routes on the right-side slab in the obvious corner crack. Follow the crack around a large flake and then into a corner where the crack dries up. There is still a good cam placement, and also a large horn that could be slung. Arrive at a narrow ledge and follow one of two options:

One: Stay in the corner, climb around a large flake and arrive at the ending section where the corner crack is now an offwidth. There is protection to be had in small cracks on the face so large pieces are not necessary. Bear left at the top and arrive at the belay location.

Two: Traverse left a bit and follow a broken crack system up to the belay location.

Build an anchor (a triple-length sling is very useful) and belay the second up.

Steep, thin, slab climbing on very small features. The first bolt is easy to get to, but the crux comes quickly as you scan the face for something that allows further progress.

Unlike

Pink Canoe

to the left, there is no good crack to help you out. If things become desperate you can resort to using the flake to the right, but this takes you off route and makes it difficult to get back to the bolts.

Thin, crimpy, unprotected slab climbing takes you to a chockstone where you can get a piece of gear in. Just don't fall before you get there! Go up and left from there, finishing on Black Magic Woman.

For the full effect, avoid the crack/corner on the right and don't use the chimney or the Black Rose slab on the left until you get to the chockstone.

An exciting, well-protected line following a natural weakness up a steep quartzite face.

Fun face climbing with sidepulls, small crimps, optional slopers, and mostly small, somewhat tricky footholds.

Starts with jugs and big feet and quickly changes to thinner climbing after the first bolt. After the fifth bolt it's back to jugs and easy cruising to the anchors.

A nice gear route up a slabby face with plenty of hand and footholds. This route was first done decades ago and originally went to the top of the slab, but with the addition of chain anchors it is unlikely many people will climb the last ten feet since a walkoff/downclimb is required.

On the right slab of the

Black Rose

area, start about 5 feet to the right of the left edge of the slab area.  Find a shallow, round dynamite hole and start up. Follow the small crack system more-or-less straight up to the chain anchors.

The main detached slab on the left of the

Black Rose

area. The slab is directly to the south of the main trail as you encounter the first rock formations about 10 minutes walk from the parking area.

From the first time you notice this slab, and how could you miss it, you will want to climb it. It is often climbed as a top rope.

The route starts on the right side of the slab just to the left of the arete. Climb up the face using the arete and then follow the diagonal crack across the face of the rock.

On lead this route will get your heart pumping. The protection is good, but very hard to see and difficult to place because you will be pulling up and to the right of the left/down facing crack. Good footwork is essential in order to keep opposition with your layback.

It seems like I've never seen anyone climb this route. And it's the last route in the Black Rose area to be added to Mt. Project. Strange, given it is one of the most accessible routes in the canyon.

When I climbed it years ago, it was all hang-dog- the 1st 11c I ever tried.  Since it was just outfitted with new bolts (see comments below), I guess it's time to go climb this again!

This route is the original

Black Rose

. It was restored by John Ross in October 2007 using the original four bolt holes. It was chopped many years ago, becoming a casualty of a dispute between two climbers. Note that the line named

Black Rose

in the Ruckman guide is not the original line.

The route starts on the right side of a small bulge at the base of the slab. After getting to the top of the small bulge you clip the first bolt (14' up) and then climb through the first crux. Thin hands and thinner feet make for some tenuous moves to slightly more positive handholds, and finally your feet are on something slightly resembling a hold. (As a side note, the ripples appearing in the

Black Rose 1. [[106506583]] 5.11c 2. [[106053868]] 5.10d 3. [[105742061]] 5.10a 4. [[106144464]] 5.11a/b

form some of the almost-holds; the ripples are a remnant of the ancient

beaches

from which the

Rock Canyon

quartzite was formed).

Clip the second bolt and the real business starts. Slopey feet, single finger holds and slopers for the hands lead to clipping the third bolt. After the clip heave a sigh of relief (but not too deeply) as you strive to reach more positive territory after another couple of moves. The hard part is over. Continue on positive edges, clip the fourth bolt and then bear right toward the anchor.

An alternate start is possible in the crack at the bottom left of the slab. The first bolt is a stretch but can be reached and clipped. However, the alternate start doesn't avoid the crux, which is after the second bolt.

Rock Canyon Loremaster Darren Knezek told me that this was originally rated 5.10d by the FA party; he thought he remembered it might even be a little harder.

The base of the slab was changed by quarrying in 2003. The routes on the slab used to start on a boulder. See

here

for a photo from before the quarrying.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Black Rose