Short bouldery crux off a ledge leads to fun easy 5.11 face climbing.

Baja Koolaid

Crispy Cougar

Pandemic

Hell or Highwater

Ambien Daydream

Intolerant of the Intolerant

Baja Runner

The Sybian

Yoshi-Meister

Al Roker's Dead

Lippy Dyke 5.11a

Gleaming the Cube

Sex Machine

Frankenpoodle

Social Distancing

Puzzler

Blade Runner

Three Amigos

Bon Bini

Summer Rain

Currently Dreaming

New World Order

This fun link up creates the likely highest quality line on the Golden Panel: Start up Baja Koolaid and do that crux, move left past the obvious link-up-bolt (drilled but not added yet) into the top of the super difficult Blade Runner climb avoiding its V9 crux. Go to the top in the usual fashion. May be 12c, will adjust grade(s) based on community consensus.

Bouldery start leads to a couple balancy sections separated by good rests. Meander up abstruse sequences to earn the pumpy technical crux at the last bolt to the anchors. Dig deep on decent crimps with meh feet to clip the chains or take the big, safe ride! Must do for the astute puzzle lover.

This is the wonderful swirly stone route just left of Lippy Dyke that was begging to be bolted and climbed. Start down and right of the first bolt on a big jug rail and work up and left, past two bolts to a recondite crux and keep traversing left on sublime climbing; mostly tech slopers and pinches. hanging the draws is a bit scary from left of the bolts, and is much easier if you climb above the bolts a tad. spooky falls, although unlikely, would result in a bit of a pendjy. There has been some discussion about relocating bolts 4 to the top 8"-12" to the left for easier, less scary position and clipping. The FA'ist is fine with this. Sustained and technical, this route is AMAZING! Can set up a TR or hang bolts from "Social Distancing".

This stellar addition is immediately left of "Gleaming the Cube". Tackle broken high-quality rock up easy 5.10 to a roof and tackle a hard boulder problem to mount a simple perch and clip the anchors. Subtract or add a star and give yourself 12a-12c for using the left wall or the chimney. The route is still enjoyable to climb this way, but is a completely different experience. Definitely an unusual but thoroughly enjoyable climb.

This is the left start variation of the route Intolerant of the Intolerant (5.10b).  Climb up and right along the left side of a thin black section of rock for 2 bolts to join the other route.  Move up through easy rock to the bottom of a left facing corner. Layback through a brief but strenuous section followed by another short crack before the anchors.

Fantastic warm-up to the left of the Project wall, climb a cool easy boulder problem to a slab and alpine feeling buggy corner. Exit a bulgy flared crack up high to gain the anchors. The left stat var. of this is "Ambient Daydream" and connects into this line after a couple bolts and a harder intro boulder.

Get on and ride - it’s guaranteed to please! Short but stout climbing through two roof systems. Mount up on the big undercling on the left side of the roof systems to the left of Pandemic above the east slab routes. Pull over onto the slab where the holds suddenly thin out and pad your way up to the base of the 2nd roof. Engaging and powerful climbing leads to an interesting roof mount terminating in a unique chickenhead jug and pull-over onto the slab above.

Fun slabs right of Three Amigos and left of the giant tree.

Fun climb up a big sweep of rock.  I'm always impressed at the varied nature of 5.8s and this one is no exception. The first pitch is the exciting part, set your anchors as high as you'd like after the steep stuff, ~90'. P2, a comfortable hand/fist off-angle pitch that ran an entire 70m all the way to where the crack peters out near the top.  I then wandered around unroped to find the beige rap anchors (up right) for 3 raps down off double ring anchors that lands about 70 feet right of the start.  A little more adventurous than the regular clip-ups.

The Laramie Range book calls this the New World Order Wall. Lots of moderate sport routes here, wish I'd done more. True to the name, it gets toasty in the sun.  The book calls this 5.7, but it's easier than the climb to the right.  See what you think.

This stiff little number climbs a prominent dark water streak.  Steep, pumpy climbing with a final crux below the anchors.  Listed as 5.9+ in Zack's guidebook...take that with a large grain of salt.

Start up the lower arete with a nice crack for the left hand. Move up and out right under the roof with difficult climbing. Follow the bolts up and a bit right to a grovel top out.

This may be the best 12d in the Laramie River Range. Maybe Wyoming. A short 5.11 intro gains a face-arete bouldery v6 crux. Then share the no-hands from "GTC". Then embark on wild roof climbing to an amazing juggy quartz dyke! This last roof is 12a-c depending on height, but not a game-changer. Finish up amazing outro moves on perfect rock. Get on up!

Engaging juggy climbing in the crack system down low leads to a long move out to a shelf on the face and then another long move to the resting jug. Get it back here for a final challenge up the block and an exciting pull-over onto the slab above.

This long route will deposit you on top of the Toaster formation but needs a bit of work. The current anchors only allow a lead with an 80 meter rope or with a lot of shenanigans, experience and a 70 meter. It would do well with a midway anchor if anyone is so inclined. Basically two very cool 5.11c's stacked into one mega pitch. fun!

This is the amazing line just right of "Bon Bini" that tackles a super tough v10 facey boulder followed by immaculate easy 5.12 face and then a slab outro that will blow your mind. Original and challenging, this line is a stunner and the current hardest addition to the LRR.

Start by climbing 30 feet of easy 5.9 bolted wide buggy crack to gain an interesting footwork dependent crux to transition to the left arete. Airy and delicate moves deliver you to the slopey topout exit moves and the chains. There was/is a huge Raven's nest in the roof just left of this line visible by peering around left from the anchors.

This route is just right of center on the clean vertical face on the right side of Toaster Wall.  It ascends a blocky ledge system down low and then follows edges and seams up the vertical face to the anchors.  A defined crux comes between bolts 4 and 5 as you conquer the bulge.

Very Cool line. Start from a stepped-up bloc with your belayer below. Climb right-facing sidepulls through a series of cruxey liebacks to gain a decent rest. Cool underclings and big pulls guard easier runout climbing above. Shares anchors with The Puzzler.

Start up a mini-triangular slab just right of Frankenpoodle and lift-the-car-off-the-baby with a burly V7 intro boulder to great jugs. Then climb 5.11 until able to stem to the top of the Frankenpood for a great and exposed rest. From here there is a 5.11 runout (a bolt hole is drilled and a bolt needs to be added). Then encounter another burly crux before sweet finger locks and a cool top out onto the lunch ledge. Sit down, take your shoes off and enjoy the view for however long before tackling the final 12a headwall. Super fun climbing the whole way! You will feel like you are "currently dreaming" your way up this immaculate climb.

Another nicely bolted moderate slab in the sun.  Collect the whole set!

The book calls it 5.7, and it is harder (IMHO) than Al.  What do you think?

Fun technical warm up. hard for 5.7. Especially for gym climbers.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Toaster Wall