Stick clip the first bolt. Pull a bouldery bulge right off the ground(crux). This crux is extremely tricky. Get set up on the slab and put in some pitiful gear. One more short crux after the next bolt and finish on White Gold

Nick of Time

Hey Y'all -- Watch This!

Glasstic

Blinded By Science

Liquid Spirit

Curly

Somethingness

Burly Girls

Lip Service

Wall of Horns

Tarzan

Hacienda

Autumn Regatta

Changing Landscapes

Disneyland

Super Grover

Dreamworld

Larry

How's Your Love Life?

Geraldine

Nothingness

Slug

Ale 81

Lichen This

Land of Silk and Money

Silent Lucidity

Sneakers

Steel Sky

Prom Queen

unknown 1

Midget Digits

Bocephus

Misty

White Gold

Pressure Sensitive

Urban Gorilla

Windows

First Black in Space

Popular Science (Golden Flake)

Rave

Abandoned Ship

Unknown 2

Knob Wall

Rant

Pretty Vacant

Muffins are Burning

%#@!

Crack in the Sky

Whammy

Dreamscape

Dream Crusher

Pop Tarts

Overhanging Jamcrack

One of Sand Rock's classic trad lines, White Gold is a burly lead with nice exposure.  If you're not a solid 5.10 leader and/or good at hand-jamming, you're probably not ready for this one. 

  Starting in a sort of shallow chimney, follow the pebbly rock up to a left-facing corner.  Jam the crack up to a roof, then move right onto the face and on to the top.

They say everything's been climbed here at Sand Rock, so even though it's not in the guidebook, there's no doubt that this route has been done in the distant past by someone like Rich Gottlieb who just never bothered to tell anyone.  Since it's not documented, I'm giving it a name so other trad leaders may decide to sample its pleasures. 

  Starting in a prominent crack, follow the crack to where it splits a roof about 30' up.  Pull through the roof to a nice ledge, then continue on easier ground to the top.

There are probably a few slight variations to this climb but essentially...start from the boulder and climb the steep face with flakes up to a horizontal crack.  Then either go right and hit a finger crack and traverse back left and pull the roof/notch...or go straight up through more flake then pull the roof.  The first option provides more options for gear and a spicy traverse.

Follows the crack and flake system immediately left of Super Grover to a defined boulder problem crux followed by large knobs and slots. While the wall may look blank where the crack ends, surprisingly it's all there!!

Climb up the easy slab to belay under the bolted crack. The crack is bolted, remember this is Sand rock, this is far from the most disgusting thing you'll see here. Difficult clip over the bulge, rest, launch into thin holds followed by a dyno, to big jug. Trend left up more difficult face moves to anchor.

Though not as juggy as its neighbors, Curly is a fun romp through a conglomerated face, with a nice ledge that will give beginners a good breather.  NOTE:  pro is scanty in the first 30' or so, so unless you're prepared to run it out on lead, toproping might be a better choice. 

  Starting just right of a pine tree next to the wall, climb through knobs and the occasional horn to a spacious ledge.  Continue up the face to the top. 

About the names:  This is one of three undocumented climbs on the Burly Girls pinnacle that I found myself referring to as the Three Stooges.  These have been climbed for many years, but I've not been able to find anyone who knows the real names for FAs.  I don't like posting "unnamed" routes, so until I learn otherwise, they are Larry, Moe and Curly.

The same route as Nothingness, except stem for the first 20 ft/3 bolts. Hardest move is transitioning from stemming to the wall, then climb run-out jugs to the top.

Crack climbing leads to easy face moves on this nice moderate.  Starting in a left-facing corner, follow the crack to its end, then move left and up on easy (but sparsely protected) ground to the top of the small pinnacle.

Located in the corridor behind Misty, about 15 right of the arete.  Also about 10 right of Hacienda, the first sport route behind Misty.  Use cheater stones to reach the first right-hand crimp, climb up slab (11d) to a huge conglomerated crack and to a huge jug out right, clip the last bolt with a hidden undercling and reach for a high right crimp, dyno to a large sloping jug with the left hand (12b) and you're done. May feel like 12c if you are tall.

An unusual route in that it doesn't follow a plumb line, Wall of Horns is a thought-provoking climb through juggy but overhanging conglomerate.  But first, you've got to get through that long and spicy traverse. 

  Starting on the left side of a wide crack, climb about 10-15' to a point where there's enough positive hands and feet to begin moving left across the face.  Continue the delicate traverse another 20' or so left and up to gain the namesake horns that will lead you to the anchors at the top.

A thin bouldery start to first bolt leads to positive holds. Located just left of Lichen This. Johnny Arms gives us another reason to visit this corridor.

Climb parallel cracks through bulge and then move left on horns avoiding upper overhang. Climbing direct through notch in roof instead raises grade to 11d.

The start is easy to the first bolt and crux to bolt 2.  I've been told some rock broke making this route a little more stiff than the original.  Clip bolt 2 high for protection and work the 2nd crux.  Once you land the flakes, it is easy going to the anchor.

Start on the pillar, step across, and follow sloping horizontals past the bolts to the anchors.

An exciting roofy start leads to mellower climbing on positive holds. 

  Starting under a roof below a slanting crack, make a tough, reachy move or two past the roof and into the crack.  Cruise up to another less strenuous overhang; pull through this and continue up the face to the top. 

About the names:  This is one of three undocumented climbs on the Burly Girls pinnacle that I found myself referring to as the Three Stooges.  These have been climbed for many years, but I've not been able to find anyone who knows the real names for FAs.  I don't like posting "unnamed" routes, so until I learn otherwise, they are Larry, Moe and Curly.

A somewhat overlooked route with the super popular Misty just to the right, Super Grover is one of my favorite lines at Sand Rock.  Climb moderate moves up and right along a pebbly crack for the first few bolts and then set up for the crux move off an awkward left hold, reaching for a "bread loaf" hold high up.  After a cool cross-through move, fight the pump up the steep wall to the chains. 

  The crux on this route is probably harder than the DCA's 11b/c rating would lead you to believe, especially if you're on the wee side.  I do it statically, but I've heard others throw to the loaf.

Climb Dreamscape to the last bolt, then tweak over a technical V5ish boulder problem directly up or slightly right. Finish with a desperate final move to the jugs over anchors, which are the same anchors as for Dreamscape.

Don't let the fun, juggy climbing down low lull you into complacency -- there's some tricky, hard-to-protect moves toward the top. 

  Starting just right of a prominent boulder, pull through an overhang onto nice conglomerated knobs.  If the overhang seems too hard, you can bypass it by stemming between the boulder and the wall and then transition onto the face.  Continue up the face right of the blunt arete and finesse your way through slopers to reach the anchors. 

About the names:  This is one of three undocumented climbs on the Burly Girls pinnacle that I found myself referring to as the Three Stooges.  These have been climbed for many years, but I've not been able to find anyone who knows the real names for FAs.  I don't like posting "unnamed" routes, so until I learn otherwise, they are Larry, Moe and Curly.

Really easy climbing to the first bolt about 15" up.  Crux is a killer slope/crimp move between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. The route is way under its grade everywhere but that crux. It's worth doing just to make that one move.

Start to the right of the first draw on small painful crimps and work left into a nice rest from the 2nd bolt to the third.  Muscle up some go-go juice to work up under the mini roof.  Work right and connect with Changing Landscapes to the top.  **Nuts on the bolts need to be tightened.  I hand-tightened best I could.**

Crux is between the ground and the 5th bolts, sustained 12b/c climbing to jugs, runout to the top, don't fall.

Climb a ramp up, right and then left to a prominent chimney.  Step out of chimney at the top to short face and crack climbing.

Start by climbing the same boulder as for Popular Science, but start a bit to the right and head for the finger crack to the right of Popular Science. Reach up and clip the first bolt, then a funky move gets you off the boulder and into the joys of climbing a conglomerated finger crack. Things soon turn to face climbing, and before you know it you're at the anchors!

Short fun route that's a great warm-up or a great first lead. Crux is towards the top between the third and fourth bolt.

A fun route that sports interesting opening moves.  Squeeze your way up the bulging arete/corner feature to arrive at the headwall.  Tiptoe up thin flakes and sidepulls to the chains.

Traverse left on crimps, cruise the slab and pull the roof to anchors

A really fun sport route, featuring a tenuous start, thin slab/face climbing and a roof pull at the finish. 

  Starting next to a looming boulder, balance your way up onto the slab.  Continue up to a shallow roof (protected by a bolt); pull the roof and continue to the anchors.

Face climb to series of stepped roofs. Beware the rope drag.

Starting from large boulder, climb up to the left of small overhang then follow bolts up trending right to slab runout up to anchors below small roof.

This newer(?) line climbs very textured rock to the right and up an arête on the left side of the wall past 1 bolt to anchors.

Tiny, crimpy holds (hence the name) give way to better holds up high, where you step up below a roof before the final climbing on great flakes.

Sharp holds lead to an interesting roof move.  Multiple cruxes keep the route exciting.

If Comfortably Numb is the must-do trad line, Misty is the sport route not to be missed at Sand Rock.  From crimpers to thin moves on a bulge to positive holds on steep overhang, Misty has it all.  An outstanding and memorable lead.

Boulder the opening section on small (painful) flakes and crimpers until a good rest.  Continue working better flakes and edges to another rest before the top section.

Slabby awkward start, either from the crack or direct I'm not sure. Move up through two underclinger bulges and on whatever edges you can find. Cool under clings but the rest isn't too remarkable.

Climb the face on thin pockets and protrusions to the big, rectangular hole in the top of the face.

Starts about 10 feet left of the bolted climb Misty, beneath an obvious right-facing flake system. Climb up to and over the flake system, then step left and up to bolts inside a large, rectangular opening near the top of the cliff. 

  The Dixie Cragger's has this one listed as 5.9+, but we didn't find anything that felt harder than 5.8. The guidebook mentions the option of taking it all the way to the top, so maybe there's some 5.9 up there?

Climb up a boulder to a large, right-facing, conglomerated flake from hell. Head to the top of the flake, then up the overhanging, right-leaning finger crack. Finish up the overhanging face to anchors at the top.

An excellent and often overlooked route!  Start in a pebbly crack to the first bolt, then sequence your way up a steep face on excellent rock. Cruxes involve some side pulls and long reaches, though don't be shy - this is not a height dependent route. Do it!

Crux is extra crimpy off the ground on a unique overhanging prow.  Like a V6/7 boulder problem to a jug to an 11c/d short face.  Was an open project for 12 years.

Bouldery crux of the ground leads to gear and better holds.  Mini crux near the lone bolt.  Very featured and textured climbing.  You won't need much chalk.

Knob Wall is a great route to take neophyte climbers.  Like the name says, it's easy climbing on plentiful jugs, and it's a nice long route with a great view of the valley below.  Knob Wall is also a good choice for new trad leaders, who can sew it up with gear and learn how to sling horns as well. 

  Starting just left of a large boulder, climb the face to a small ledge (little to no pro in the first 15').  Follow the jugs and horns up to anchors at the top.

Stout 5.11 climbing to the last bolt leads to a very hard boulder problem before anchors. There is some dirty lichen at the top, but all of the handholds are clean.

Climb the face to the large diagonal shelf. Make your way over the shelf after the 3rd bolt. Continue up the slab and pull the second roof to the anchors

Fight your way up to a decent crimp below the first bolt and clip it.  Now reach for decent rounded holds and incut edges.  Work your way up on easier ground to the cold shuts.

Pretty easy start leads to a tricky slabby finish to anchors after clipping the last bolt. Feel free to tell me the name of the route/who did the FA and I'll add it; don't think this route is in any guidebook either.

Climb the raw, conglomerated handcrack and flake.   Gain a large ledge and rest.   Face climb to the offwidth and continue to the top.

Start behind low roof on sharp jugs. Pull the roof and crimp your way through 2 or 3 bolts of pebbly rock, to some better holds. Crux is below the roof, where the holds get less painful, but much thinner. Figure out your sequence, then pull the final roof on surprisingly good holds.

This route starts from the top of a boulder on the back of the wall that contains White Gold.  The moves off the ground are thin and require good foot work.  After several bolts there is a rest followed by steep juggy climbing.  Go straight up for 12d or move out left to easier ground.  I would have to say the best route of its grade at SR.

Climb an interesting finger crack to the first bolt, then use every bit of wingspan and shoe rubber you can summon to transition to the arete. Fight the barn door for a couple of bolts and top out onto a ledge.

Another "mystery" climb at Sand Rock. I have no idea who initially put it up, or when. So I just made up a name for it. If anyone knows legit first ascent info, please fill in the blanks. 

  Start on the face just right of the arete. A crimpy start leads to larger flakes and chicken heads. Continue up past the bolt to a chain/ring anchor at the top.

Climb up sandy rock past some large, right-facing flakes and them some conglomerate to get to the main event -- the overhanging hand crack through the roof. Jam your way to glory!

 Once you're through the business, you can continue straight up to the top and build a gear anchor in some horizontals. To get down, either rap from one of the other routes' anchors or do the walkoff down the far end of the formation.

With its southern exposure, the aptly-named Sun Wall is a great place to climb in the winter (and to be avoided in the hot summer months).  This cliffline runs parallel to the road into Sand Rock, and in many places you'll see roadside campsites across the way after topping out.  The wall is actually a series of free-standing towers detached from the main wall; in many places, the gap is narrow enough to jump across and hike back down to the trail. 

  The Sun Wall is best known for great sport routes like Misty, but there's also a number of fine trad lines here as well.  It's also a good place to get away from the crowds at the Pinnacle and Holiday Block.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sun Wall